Sorta Songlines

I love you baby, but you gotta understand

When the Lord made me

He made a Ramblin' Man.

Some folks might say that I'm no good

That I wouldn't settle down if I could

But when that open road starts to callin' me

There's somethin' o'er the hill that I gotta see

Sometimes it's hard but you gotta understand

When the Lord made me, He made a Ramblin' Man.

~ Hank Williams Sr.

Friday, December 15

Mojave Desert, CA


Today was more exercise than I’ve had in a while. I was maybe 15 miles into the park when I glimpsed a beautiful photo possibility between two hills. The road curved in close to one set of hills and I pulled off the road at the closest place I could find. From the van it looked like no more than a few hundred yards up a gentle slope to a ridge that looked like it would give me a great panorama of the valley and mountains beyond. When I got to that ridge I found that the view was ok, but was hindered by another set of hills a few hundred yards further on. It looked like if I were to climb up to the peak of the closest one I would have a truly postcard-worthy shot. You can probably imagine what happened next and then again after that. Every hilltop showed me another and each one wasn’t too much further and I had already come that far so…

Cut-to: an hour and forty-five minutes later, with a heart rate better suited to a hummingbird, I finally got back to the van with a bunch of photos; none of which will do justice to the view I labored for.

Joshue Tree National Park, CA


I was lying on a rock looking at the stars and enjoying a silence I haven’t heard in a long time when a coyote started to sing. It couldn’t have been more than a few hundred yards away and at first it startled me. As I listened, though, I began to hear it differently. It started out harsh and grating then became something more. Each cry would begin as a bark, almost a yelp, and then would stretch into a declaration. He seemed to be saying, “I am here, if only for a moment.” It was the last bit that really got me, though. It dropped into a mournful lament, rife with sadness. It was as if he had lost a companion and his cries soared across that desert canyon to lay his friend to rest. After several minutes of song he stopped and disappeared back into the dark silence of the desert leaving only his echo and I wondered if he had even been there at all.

Thursday, December 14

Salton Sea, CA



The main reason I had to see this was because the movie of the same name was pretty good. When I pulled up to the beach my first impression was of how still the water was. This lake is so big you can't see all the way across it in some parts yet the water stirred hardly a jot. When I got out and began walking towards the waterline I noticed the hordes of seagulls and when I got closer I saw the carpet of tiny dead fish all the way down the shore. The smell was overwhelming, but not overwhelming enough to chase me away from a truly breathtaking view.

If not for the odor I probably would have camped there, but as it was I stole a few photos and moved on, much to the dismay of the camp host. In actuality the dismay probably had more to do with the fact that I didn't pay the six dollar day-use fee. Damn The Man, Save The Empire!

Wednesday, December 13

Yuma, AZ


I didn’t make it far today, but where I ended up was worth it. Mittry Lake might be the prettiest free campground I’ve been to. The above photo does not do it justice. I bet summer would be almost unbearable here, but December is working out nicely.

There are a few other campers, but not many, not on a Wednesday. After the sunset a few bloodsucking bugs came out, but the temp dropped (as it does in the desert) fast enough that it was a short-lived issue. I was thinking of staying here for a day or two but I’ve been enjoying the hum of tires on asphalt.

Initially I was thinking that I’d head straight to San Diego when I left here but after some consideration my “plans” have changed. I’ve been to San Diego several times and while it is beautiful, I’m feeling the need to see some new horizons.

Tuesday, December 12

Phoenix, AZ

As with every post about a city where I was visiting friends, I don’t really know what to write. I was hoping to see three friends while I was in town. As it turns out, I only had two. I think the third was just a girl I used to know, and that’s about as far as it ever went. It was nice, though, the warmth of a couple friends, a couple hot showers, and being in a town I knew my way around.

Its been about a year since I left this town to head to a womanless land where winter lasts 8 months. I don’t regret leaving, but I have to admit, big city life has its benefits.

Sunday, December 10

Superior, AZ


My magic book of camping sites let me down, then I found a campground not in the book. It’s a weekend so the place is a little busier than I like, but after my performance last night, I don’t mind a little company.

It seems a bit warmer here, but regardless, I’m sure I’ll still wake up in a cold world. The van is nice, but if the temp outside drops down to 30, so does the temp inside. I can stay pretty warm in all my warmies, but there is still that moment in the morning where I crawl out and spend a few minutes freezing.

I’ll be in Phoenix tomorrow and depending on how things go I’ll be there for a few days to a week. From there it’s on to sunny San Diego.

This trip has become less something I’m doing and more something I’ve become. This isn’t a roadtrip so much as its just living on the road.